Buddhist Monks and a Royal Wedding
An Adventure A Week
Each morning as I headed out for the day, robed monks called a cheerful “sa-bai-dee” (“how are you doing”) as they pedaled past. This is just one of my favorite memories during my time in Luang Prabang, Laos.
One of my favorite countries, Laos is a magical place where you can immerse yourself in Buddhist traditions and see up-close how the culture permeates everyday life. For instance, I would often sit outside the temples and listen to the monks chant at sunset. And sometimes, I would wake up before dawn to observe the monks’ alms procession called Tak Bat.
Tak Bat takes place every morning and lasts about 15 minutes. The tradition of providing food for monks is a way for the faithful to show humility, which Buddhists believe is the first step on the path toward nirvana.
It is an incredibly poignant form of religious expression to witness the procession of silent monks in the early morning light, coupled with the quiet sincerity of the laypeople as they present their daily offerings.
Arriving just before sunrise, the city’s devout Buddhists kneel quietly on the sidewalk, raise their rice baskets to their foreheads to bless the rice, and issue a prayer. The townsfolk then wait patiently for the saffron-robed monks to appear.
Slowly streaming out of the city temples, the monks silently walk down Sisavangvong Road, Luang Prabang’s main street, with rice bowls at their hips. As the monks pass, each believer places a small handful of sticky rice into the low-slung bowl.
Following a strict Tak Bat etiquette, neither the worshippers nor the monks say a word during the entire ceremony. The faithful are either sitting or kneeling so that they are lower than the monks passing by. Also, the worshippers must never touch the monks while placing rice in their bowls.
There’s also a code of conduct for observers. To be respectful, one should dress modestly and be quiet (no talking, no cell phones, no car horns). Equally distracting are flash cameras, which disrupt the sanctity of the ceremony.
I decided to watch the procession from across the street, sitting quietly on a stoop with a large shawl wrapped around me. I took very few pictures, instead opting to immerse myself in the beauty that was paraded before me.
While I made a conscious decision not to participate in the alms-giving ceremony, some tourists do. They purchase rice from street vendors and take their place on the sidewalk, distributing rice to the monks walking past. Unfortunately, the rice is often of inferior quality (which is considered an insult to the monks), yet the monks must accept what they are given.
In my mind, I equate the alms-giving procession with the act of taking Holy Communion in the Catholic Church. If you’re not baptized, it may be considered presumptuous or offensive to the devout to participate in this sacred ceremony.
Another Buddhist ritual I enjoyed is the nightly chanting at the temple, where monks gather at the end of each day to meditate. Starting about 5:30 p.m., monks and novices file into their temples, sit on the floor facing away from the door, and chant for nearly an hour.
Oftentimes, I would plan my day so I could visit different temples and observe this nightly tradition. Perching myself unobtrusively in the shadows outside on the temple steps, I would sit quietly, draped again in a large shawl, and listen to the calming serenade.
It was here on the temple steps that I met my first temple cat. A small black kitten that reminded me of the kittens I had once fostered from an animal shelter back at home. I felt an immediate attachment and visited my new fluffy friend almost every day, bringing the scrawny kitten a bit of milk and a small saucer to drink from.
Placing my worry about fleas aside, I would sit and cuddle the kitten as the monks inside the temple chanted in a hypnotic rhythm. Looking back, the early evenings spent at my temple observation post are the most peaceful and relaxing during my entire 2-year journey.
Late one afternoon, on my way to the temple, I stopped at a corner store to buy a pint-sized serving of milk for my newfound bestie. The proprietress was very excited to see me and kept gesturing to the TV she had in at the back of the store.
On the screen was the wedding of Prince William and his bride Kate. The merchant was watching the wedding ceremony, enraptured with the regal proceedings. I, in turn, was delighted that she was so moved by the spectacle.
She kept giggling about the nuptials, pulling my arm for me to come and watch with her. I tried to explain to her that I was American and therefore not so enamored by the English pomp and circumstance. The difference between British and American, however, may have been lost in translation.
And so I just smiled and pulled up a chair as together we watched the splendidly bedecked British royals walk down the aisle. Enjoying the incongruousness of it all, that afternoon spent with the lovely shopkeeper watching the royal wedding reminded me of just how small the world really is. 🦋
What religious rituals do you enjoy most? Have you ever participated in a religious ceremony not of your faith? How do you balance the desire to participate in a new culture without disrupting the sacredness of the ceremony?
⭐ An Adventure A Week is a serial based on my autobiography “Adventures Of A Nomad: 30 Inspirational Stories.” You can read the essays in order (or not). Can’t wait for the next installment? Get the book.
Already a subscriber? 😃 Receive your gift copy of "How to Pack Like a Nomad: 25 Tips, Must-Have Items + Packing List."
Christened “Wander Woman” by National Geographic, Erin Michelson is a professional speaker and author of the Nomad Life™ series of travel books and guides, including the #1-ranked “Explore the World with Nomads.”