Central Asia is tough for a vegetarian. For instance, horse is the national dish in Kazakhstan. (Neigh! 🐴)
Despite translating “no meat” when ordering, the whole vegetarian thing wasn’t always happening. Time and again, my hosts assured me there was no meat in my meal, only to say “just a little sausage,” after I had taken a bite.
So for the last month, my go-to has been rice and grilled vegetables. That said, I’ve still eaten some amazing dishes.
Here’s my ranking of Central Asian food (Vegetarian Edition):
#10 Cheese Curds – Almaty, Kazakhstan
Hard as rocks, these marble-sized pale white balls slowly dissolve in your mouth, leaving a slightly salty aftertaste.
While I’d see the cheese balls in the market and readily pass them up, I felt obliged to eat one offered by my host while hitchhiking. (Some might think hitchhiking in Central Asia and accepting food from strangers is not safe, but apparently not me.)
#9 Samsa – Bukhara, Uzbekistan
Similar to samosas, these little pockets of dough are fried and filled with meat and/or cheese. The cheese version was usually made with a cottage cheese-like filling, instead of melted cheese. They had promise, but never quite delivered for me. Sometimes dry.
#8 Manti - Samarkand, Uzbekistan
Manti are steamed dumplings, usually the size of a fist, and come 5-6 to a plate. Most eat it as a meal, but I can only get down one. Usually meat-filled, they also have a pumpkin version that is sweet like a pumpkin pie.
#7 Non Flatbread – Khiva, Uzbekistan
An all-around good bread for dipping and wrapping your food, Central Asia non is baked in a vertical, tandoor-like oven. The best part is watching the women make the break fresh and use a stamp, called a chekich, to make decorative patterns. Kinda bland, basically used as a vessel for other food.
#6 Chuchvara – Bukhara, Uzbekistan
Presented as “Uzbek ravioli,” I enjoyed my bowl of chuchvara. The pasta pockets were the size of an American quarter with a slightly chewy texture. Mine were filled with a type of onion, possibly ramps, that gave each little bundle a nice mild flavor. Sour cream on the side was a bonus.
#5 Plov – Khiva, Uzbekistan
Plov is the one dish eaten throughout all of Central Asia and considered representative of the region. A hearty rice dish, it is usually served with braised lamb or sometimes beef.
My veg version was served with dried apricots and raisins. I sometimes found forgotten pieces of meat lurking at the bottom of the bowl. Also tended to be a little greasy for me (usually because the rice was mixed with lamb fat).
#4 Qurutob – Dushanbe, Tajikistan
Qurutob is Tajikistan’s national dish. The base is bread, with dried balls of cheese that soften. It’s covered with a salad of tomatoes, cucumbers, and onions as well as copious amounts of yogurt.
It’s a shared meal and eaten with your hand. (Your right hand only, the left is considered “dirty.” Unfortunately, I made this mistake.🙈)
They said there’s a veg version, so I asked for one with no meat. After a bite, I realized my second mistake. In these parts, “meat” refers to beef and lamb, chicken is the non-meat option. I ended up trying to eat around the chicken bits. Kinda of a weird texture to be honest, but it was pretty.
#3 Tanga Tea – Almaty, Kazakhstan
Tanga was introduced to me in Almaty, the capital of Kazakhstan, and I became slightly obsessed (although I couldn’t find it anywhere else). I particularly loved the teeny pinecones that were steeping inside, along with other bits of “forest floor,” like bark, berries, and leaves. The mini pinecones were chewy and tasted of pine. Tried to buy some at the market, but couldn’t find. Again, obsessed.
#2 Eggplant Salad – Bukhara, Uzbekistan
I can be wary of raw vegetables, like salads, when traveling abroad. I’m afraid that the greens are washed with local water. So this salad, with slightly crispy, cooked eggplant, was a treat. This version included a hint of sesame seed oil, and it was so refreshing (after all the heavy food). Truly delicious.
#1 Onion Bread – Tashkent, Uzbekistan
Street food for the win! I literally whipped my head around when I got a whiff of this bread being sold in a Tashkent market. It was hubcap-sized, with cheese and onion baked in. My friend Carmen and I shared it (although I ate most). Delish.
What is a food that you discovered while traveling? Do you still eat it today? Any food from the open road that you would *not* recommend?
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Christened “Wander Woman” by National Geographic, Erin Michelson is a professional speaker and author of the Nomad Life™ series of curated trips and travel guides, including the #1-ranked “Explore the World with Nomads.”
V nice! Please read my upcoming series on Pakistan. Would love your thoughts on it! It begins October 16th ❤️