When I visit a new (to me) place, one of my favorite things to do is hunt down a book by a local author. I feel like this domestic perspective gives me a sharper lens as I start to interpret the world around me. Like a friend, letting me in on a secret or inside joke.
On my first full day in Belgrade, I picked up Momo Kapor’s “The Magic of Belgrade,” a compilation of the famous author’s musings on his Serbian hometown.
Poetry & Photos
As I began reading through his series of vignettes on the city’s essence, his words echoed my current thoughts. I was jotting down notes on the “Top 10 things I love about Belgrade,” and the photos I was capturing—those I thought defined the city’s character—were the same magic moments that Kapor wrote about.
“Belgrade is best explained by these five words which we say out loud as soon as we enter its airport, on our return from abroad. They include love, warmth, admiration and a sense of security; also, happiness that we live in such an appropriate place as Belgrade.”
So I thought it’d be fun to intersperse his words with my photos. Illustrating what Kapor witnessed more than 20 years ago as a native and what I’m seeing today as a tourist: a unique Belgrade personality pulsing through this vibrant capital.
1. Mapping the City
As I flew into the city, the Soviet architecture and massive housing units struck me, a lasting impression from the days of the USSR.
“Aerial photos of Belgrade make it possible to read its past, present and future, as if from the palm of someone’s hand.”
2. Getting Around
Buses, trams, and trolleys are all free in the city, not only making it easy to get around, but encouraging exploration. I ran for many buses during my short time there.
“Once a long time ago, when I was still a kid, in the No. 2 tram, I gave up my seat to an “elderly” lady, about thirty years old.
This morning, in this same tram, a pretty eighteen-year-old girl gave up her seat to me!
My life has passed between these two events, going in circles all the time, just like the No. 2 tram…”
3. Small Dogs
On the bus ride in from the airport, I saw so many pet stores but no dogs on the street. I quickly discovered these precious pets were hidden in purses.
“Stray dogs and layabouts from the banks of the Sava snarl at their pampered little dogs – almost insects, carried in their owners’ arms like babies.”
4. Non-stop Smoking
In many areas of the world I’ve seen most men smoke, but rarely have I seen women keeping pace with them. And when they’re not smoking, they’re holding the unlit cigarette or vape in their hand.
“I notice the number of girl smokers is constantly on the rise. You might say it’s a nasty habit, and I couldn’t agree more, but don’t expect me to be disgusted! I even dare say – I like the way they do it, while swaying their bodies and holding prettily the burning cigarettes in their elongated fingers.”
5. City of Cafes
As someone who travels with an espresso machine, I love coffee too. I fully appreciated all the cafes and found a new favorite coffee drink: an orange raf.
“Here, it is with a cup of coffee that love is born, plots are hatched, hangovers cured, plans made, meetings held, disputes solved, widows consoled, and there is no change that gossiping about others (the most outstanding national characteristic) would be possible without coffee drinking sessions…”
6. Hand-Made Hats
In my neighborhood, shops were selling hand-made hats, shoes, and suits. It was all I could do *not* to buy a hat.
It’s interesting that gentlemen were not as annoyed by the disappearance of hats as ladies, who now look at them with envy only if they travel to some more fortunate country, where gods and hat-makers are not on bad terms with each other.”
7. Neighborhood Feel
Belgrade is made up of neighborhoods, each well-defined and with its own character: glitzy waterfront, gritty center, Bohemian quarter, historic district, airport Chinatown, and the Soviet housing blocks dominating Novi Beograd (New Belgrade) across the Sava River.
“The cab driver eyes me suspiciously: who am I to be going to such an elegant district? If I belong there, he’ll hate me, and if I don’t, he’ll despise me…”
8. A Realpolitik Place
Standing at the crossroads of the Danube & Sava Rivers, Belgrade has long been seen as a strategic dividing line: from Roman to Ottoman to Austro-Hungarian to Soviet, and now, the EU.
“Belgrade is not in Belgrade, as Belgrade, actually, is not a city – it is a metaphor, a way of life, an angle of looking at things.”
9. Street Art
I love a city where street art abounds, and Belgrade did not disappoint. Graffiti (both artful and not) decorated nearly every street and train in the city. I always consider street art the act of a passionate, expressive people.
“On second thought, this city is not, after all, the best place for people with serious professions, for politicians, economists, lawyers, planners, scientists and the like, but it is absolutely ideal for writers!
The Belgrade writers do not have to resort to their imagination at all.”
10. Cookies & Cakes
Palačinke, syrniki, knedle, kolachy, burek, pitas—Belgrade is home to all sorts of savory and sweet pastries and pancakes. I tried both the walnut and poppyseed kolachy, which were every bit as good as my aunt’s.
“I am all for a peaceful coexistence between Turkish delight and Sachertorte, and I would like to make it public by beating on a drum layer cake with forks, as I have always had certain misgivings about all reforms, including the reform layer cake!”
Final Thought
As I end with a thought that Kapor and I both share:
“I go back home, lie down on my sofa, stare at the ceiling and ask myself - really, maybe I should be writing something more serious?”
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Christened “Wander Woman” by National Geographic, Erin Michelson has traveled to 140+ countries & all 7 continents. She is a professional speaker and author of the Nomad Life™ series of curated trips and travel guides, including the #1-ranked Explore the World with Nomads.
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